The first thing we did was to make sure that we had the correct P.P.E (gloves, goggles and steel toe capped boots). we then located the area that needed repairing. Once we found the area that needed repairing, we then took out the loose bricks and got as much of the old mortar out of the hole where the brick was. we then loaded the hole with mortar and pushed the brick into the hole makeing sure that it is flush with the wall. once it was flush we then scraped of the exess and used a jointing tool to render and make sure the aperance was good. we then finaly cleaned up all the tools and equipment as well as the work area.
- jointing iron
- pointing trowel
- bolster
- spirit level
- bin
- dust pan
- brush
- broom
- goggles
- gloves
- boots (steel toe capped)
- bucket
- bricks
- mortar
- water
Brick Rot : Bricks (other than engineering bricks) will absorb moisture from the ground or continual condensation such that over decades the bricks will soften and loose strength.
Diagonal Cracks : Cracks that are the result of ground movement tend to be diagonal in nature with vertical cracks showing as hairline at the point of rotation and wider further away.
Limitations
- Brick walls are made from compressed earth and, therefore, are susceptible to water absorption.When bricks absorb water, they deteriorate more quickly than other materials that do not absorb as much water.
- Additionally, building brick walls can be very time consuming and expensive because each brick must be mortared and placed by hand
- There is a risk of droping bricks and breaking your toes so you should wear steel toe capped boots.
- There is a risk of morter getting in to your eyes. the lime in the morter can cause bildness so you need to wash out as soon as possible
- There is a risk of haveing a reachion with the lime in the morter so you should wear gloves when handleing
mortar = £6
bricks = £0.50 x 2 = £1
labour £30 per hour x 2 people = £60
fuel = 10 per mile = £10
total = £77.00
No comments:
Post a Comment